Straight VS. Curved Ice Axe for Ski and Split Mountaineering

Written by Mont Ambassador Doug Chatten

In ski and split mountaineering when it's too steep and/or icy for skinning and your skis are on your pack, normally at about 25-30 degrees we need other climbing aids and protection.

Before you buy your axe consider your needs. Will you be using it as a general mountaineering tool, in steeper terrain when ski/split mountaineering, will you be ice climbing or a mixture of applications.

Straight Shaft Ice Axes

Straight shaft axes are best for a general ski/split tool & an excellent choice for use as a walking cane, self arresting and cutting steps. A curved or technical shaft axe will still do these things albeit not as well but will be better suited to steep skiing terrain, ice and mixed climbing.

When ascending in an upright position and using your axe as a cane for balance & self arrest a straight shaft axe that is a little longer with a spike for punching through layers is best. Depending on your level of comfort and surface conditions you may climb in this position in terrain steeper than others would.

When the terrain is steeper and you are uncomfortable in the upright position you will be in a daggering position where you are grasping the axe in various grips at the head of the axe and in a more prone position to the snow surface. This is where the more technical curved shaft is better suited but the straight shaft will still work!

Axe positions for various slope angles

<45° cane

45°-60° low dagger

60°-70° mid dagger

>70° ice axe - traction

Now this one is a deep rabbit hole when it comes to ascending steeper slopes in a ski/split-mountaineering application; Two axes, one axe and a pole, one axe & a Whippet or two Whippets? I personally like one axe and one whippet but also am a fan of two whippets! See what works for you.

Don't let having extra protection lure you into more challenging terrain & conditions. Find a steep short slope clear of rocks with a safe run out to practice your self arresting, never practice with your crampons on and when it's in anger always lift your feet off the snow to avoid injury from a crampon snag!

Want to learn more? Contact Doug and the team at Snowy Mountain Backcountry 

Doug in the Main Range