Climbing in the Warrumbungles

Written by Caitlin Horan

Three intrepid adventurers set off from Canberra to sample a couple of the classic climbs in the Warrumbungles National Park.

Nestled in the heart of Australia, the Warrumbungles National Park is a breathtaking testament to the country's natural wonders. As you enter this enchanting realm, you are immediately greeted by a landscape of awe-inspiring beauty. Towering trachyte peaks pierce the sky, their jagged contours casting striking silhouettes against the horizon. Verdant valleys, adorned with vibrant wildflowers, spread out beneath the towering giants, inviting visitors to immerse themselves in the tranquillity of the surroundings. The park's unique geological formations, sculpted over millions of years, create a sense of grandeur that is simply unparalleled. As the sun dips below the horizon, a celestial canvas of stars emerges, painting the night sky with a mesmerising tapestry of twinkling lights. The Warrumbungles National Park is an exhilarating climbing destination. 

We stayed at Balor Hut which is the last remaining hut of 5 originally built along the Grand High Tops walk. It is roughly a 6km walk from the Pincham campground. The walk is mostly flat but does have some steep pinches. Balor Hut is very basic with 4 bunk heads (with no bedding), a table and a couple of small wood fires. It's also home to hungry, plastic eating, mice so keep all your gear hanging! Not just your food. The hut has a pit toilet nearby and a water tank. Balor Hut needs to be booked and this can be done through the visitors’ centre. They may also have intel on how much water is in the tank.

We went in April and had outstanding weather for climbing. Mild overnight and sunny but cool through the days. Being a person who struggles with the cold I was hesitant to head up to the hut without my Mont Icicle Jacket, but it turned out that layering under my Mont Guide Jacketwas more than sufficient. Sadly, the mouse was also partial to my Guide jacket and tried it out for a little snack, to say I was annoyed would be an understatement!

Old stove to warm up the hut

We only had a few days, so we decided to climb two of the classics. Lieben 200m (17R) on Crater Bluff and Flight of the Phoenix 310m (18) on Bluff Mountain. 

We love climbing in a team of three. Yes, it takes way longer, but it is way more fun! Aware that these routes would be long days in a team of three we set off early to climb Lieben arriving at the base of the climb about 7am. Lieben is a very historic route being Australia’s hardest climb for some time and incredible to conceive of it being done in 1962, an amazing achievement by the first ascensionists Bryden Allen and Ted Batty. Lieben is notorious for people getting off route, starting off route or generally getting “Warrumbungled”.  I can see how this is easy enough to do. Luckily for us, Pete’s solid research pre-trip meant we navigated straight to the start and had a smooth run.

 

Lieben has very questionable rock in several sections and definitely a run out in the crux pitch that might be a bit much for some. We found our large collection of small cams to be extremely useful on this route, especially on the early pitches. The money pitch is the crux pitch, although the guidebook says 40m it is more like 55m and outstanding value. There are two options, out on the rib or in the steep groove. I picked the steep groove, and the climbing was sensational, technical climbing with good placements for the first 40m or so. Placements get quite scarce at the end, but the climbing is easy so just pick the rock that isn’t going to break… My favourite Mont item, my Grid Pro hoody, stood up admirably in this adventure and allowed easy access to my phone via the external chest pocket so I could photograph the highlights!  

The descent was nearly as much adventure as the climbing. Starting with a tip toe ridge traverse followed by a down climb on mossy choss to discover some rap rings. Three to five raps, some scrambling and you are back at the start. The amazing part of the descent is the green glacier. Crater Bluff is a volcanic plug so the top, the mountain is hollow. Inside is a series of deep canyons. The main canyon and the location of the descent route is the beautiful “green glacier”. The green glacier thrives in a microclimate and is home to abundant ferns and lush greenery ending in a waterfall for the final abseil. The hike back to the hut takes about half an hour. 

The main event was the Flight of the Phoenix, one of the most spectacular looking climbs in Australia in my opinion. A longer route with a longer approach than Lieben. We set out before light to make sure we were at the start in good time. The approach from Balor Hut took roughly an hour. The second half of the approach is through spikey country! Repeatedly snagged on sharp bushes. I was truly impressed at how the Bimberi pants stood up to the assault. Not only are these pants light and comfortable, but they also move really well for climbing and turns out they are tough as nails.

Pete up high on pitch 4 with the eagle

The rock quality and the placements on Flight of Phoenix are far superior to Lieben. The first two pitches are outstanding, forcing all sorts of movement with a great piece nearby! This gets you to the rap pitch which felt a bit dodgy to me, but I am also a bit of a scaredy-cat. You rap down roughly 18m and set an anchor in less than prime placements. This belay sets you up for the money pitch! The 50m traverse through amazing orange rock! An amusing sight is the miniature cairn built halfway across the traverse to let you know you are on route! Pete took this lead, and it was great to watch, as Pete neared the next belay a huge eagle started to circle just above him. Priceless.

There is some potential to get off route on pitches 5 and 6 but we found as long as you keep questing in the right direction there are multiple options for belays. I also think it is probably possible to cut down a pitch by linking a couple up, but do so at your own risk. Flight of the Phoenix should be on all climbers bucket lists. 5 stars. The descent of Bluff Mountain takes a little bit longer but it is on the tourist track and easy walking.

The sunrises, campfire stories, wondering if you are on route, and memories made with friends is what it is about. The Warrumbungles is certainly a special place to experience these things.