The Tyndall Range and Lake Huntley in Tasmania’s west are nothing short of spectacular for any outdoor type but especially rock climbers. The rugged beauty of the Tyndall Range, with its towering conglomerate peaks and dramatic cliffs, offers some of the most thrilling and scenic climbing in Australia. It just might be the most beautiful climbing venue in Australia. The challenge of the 300m climbs is matched only by the breathtaking views— exposed ridges, crystal clear tarns, alpine flowers and panoramic vistas of the surrounding wilderness. Lake Huntley, nestled near the top of the range, adds an extra layer of tranquillity and allure, its pristine deep blue waters reflect the soaring rock walls like a mirror. Whether tackling technical climbing routes or simply soaking in the awe-inspiring landscape, the Tyndall Range and Lake Huntley provide an unforgettable experience for climbers seeking both adventure and natural beauty.
The Tyndalls sit just fifteen minutes outside of Queenstown. The track up to the climbing at Lake Huntley is not long but it is somewhat gruelling. The approach takes 2-3 hours. It is steeply uphill with large steep ups and steep slabs to ascend. Thankfully the top of the range is covered in beautiful little tarns so you don’t need to carry much water in with you. Once you reach the top of the hiking trail you break off towards Lake Huntley and the bivy cave. The bivy cave provides a good spot to seek shade if needed and a comfy spot to cook and hang out. As for sleeping in there, I would sooner pitch my tent outside unless I was trying to get shelter from wind. The cave does sleep about 6, but flat spots to lay your mat are fairly limited.
The climbing in the Tyndalls is characterised by long multi-pitch adventure routes on conglomerate rock. The climbing is committing in several ways and is not for beginner multi-pitch climbers. The grades are fair but there may be some sections that are more run out than some would be comfortable with. Half the routes are ‘sporting’ sport routes and half the routes are mixed trad with the first ascensionists only placing bolts when necessary. There is no real option to rap off and walk out, so you must be confident you can climb back to the top.
The routes in the Tyndalls presents a unique set of challenges that demand a climber's full focus, skill, and adaptability. Unlike more uniform rock types, conglomerate rock is often made up of a mix of rounded pebbles and larger stones cemented together by a matrix of finer material. This creates a surface that can be unpredictable and irregular, with holds that vary in size, shape, and stability from one section to the next. Onsighting demands a good level of endurance as you feel out each pebble for the one that you can use. Climbers need to be ready to think outside the square, as they negotiate several different types of rock and hence friction in the same section of climbing. The variation in texture can also make friction moves difficult and require constant attention to body positioning. To climb effectively in the Tyndalls you require a well-rounded skill set.
On these long multi-pitch routes, these challenges are compounded by the sustained nature of the climb. As you ascend, the mental and physical fatigue builds, and the need to stay sharp on every pitch becomes even more critical. Additionally, the complexity of route-finding is heightened—sometimes the best line is not obvious, and the need to navigate around rock features and other obstacles becomes a test of both climbing technique and strategic thinking.
Managing these challenges over multiple pitches also means that climbers need to be prepared for longer periods of exposure to the elements and physical strain, making endurance as crucial as technique. But despite these difficulties, there’s something incredibly rewarding about tackling a multi-pitch conglomerate route. The combination of physical challenge, problem-solving, and the beauty of climbing through such varied and rugged terrain makes it an unforgettable experience for any climber who’s ready to face the challenge.
There are a couple of shorter fully bolted routes you can use to get a feel for the rock. These are Cloudstreet (23) and Raindancer (22), 35m and 80m respectively. You can also do what we did and start with a lap of How Hard Can it Be (23), a 7-pitch, sport route. Which can also be done at grade 21 if you don’t rap down the final pitch. This is a pleasant route and after testing pebbles for 170m you start to feel quite comfortable with the style required. The rap route for this route can be slightly confusing, make sure you are looking around for the next anchors. Regardless of what route you do first, I would suggest spending a bit of time getting to know the area. We hiked in and spent the first afternoon orientating ourselves with the area, finding the rap points and negotiating the different buttresses to get where we needed to be. This saved us a lot of time over the coming days.
The main wall contains the classic routes. Deeper Water (27) being the king line, taking in an amazing 305m of climbing over 9 pitches. The main wall is flanked by Ice Cream Cone and Big City Life Buttresses. If you don’t have the time or inclination to do 300m of climbing I would recommend Big City Life (26) as an excellent morning adventure. The walls are remarkably steep and continuous and seem to rise straight out of the lake!
When you are not climbing there is no shortage of hiking and scrambling to be found. Hikes up Mt Tyndall itself, Mt Sedgwick, over to Geike or one of many large alpine lakes could keep you entertained for days. Being quite high there isn’t abundant large wildlife, but watch closely for the tiny frogs, lizards and birdlife. There are also snakes up there, we only came across one which we think was a whip snake.
On this trip I took my Mont Hypermid Tent, which is my all-time favourite tent. This tent was perfect for the night we camped out in the open. The Hypermid stood up to a night of extreme wind admirably, but we decided to move camp and seek a wind break for night two. We moved into the bivy cave and in here it would have been more beneficial to bring in my Moondance tent as it is freestanding and the rock floor of the cave made it slightly more difficult to pitch the Hypermid, nothing a bit of creativity with rocks couldn’t solve though. You could sleep in the cave without a tent, but when we were there in January you would get eaten alive by mosquitos. There are plenty of water sources so bring your Micropur or Lifestraw in. There isn’t enough wood up there to start a fire, so make sure you bring your gas stove. We were there in January and there were bugs. Most of the time the flies and mosquitos weren’t too bad, but at dusk or near the water sources you might find yourself reaching for the Bushmans.
Alpine shrub is brutal and you will encounter plenty of this as you approach the climbs. Couple these gnarly stick monsters with the conglomerate rock and I would recommend some sturdy climbing/hiking pants. As normal I wore my Mont Bimberi pants which are perfect for just about all outdoor pursuits. On the first day I wore my original first-ever pair that I have been testing in the harshest conditions for three years now. After sliding down a conglomerate boulder, I finally managed to get a small hole in them. For those of you who have been following along, you are no doubt amazed that these pants have not buckled sooner! To say I have put these pants through the ringer to see what they can take, would be a massive understatement. A couple of stitches and they are back in business and ready for their next round of bush trauma! There isn’t heaps of shade up there so wear your favourite long-sleeved shirt or treat yourself to a new Mont sun hoody.
As I hiked back out of the Tyndalls I had already made up my mind to come back. It has been a long time since I have been so enamoured with a climbing destination but this rugged, imposing and beautiful place has me hooked.
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